The Affair of the Necklace

 Romance. Scandal. Intrigue. 

            There’s something magical about a necklace. Thirteen women in Ventura CA recently embarked on an adventure that transformed their lives when they collectively purchased as $37,000 diamond necklace. Appearing on Good Morning America, they promoted their book The Necklace: Thirteen Women And the Experiment That Transformed Their Lives. Talks for a movie are in the works.

           

            When the perfect strand of diamonds caught Jonell McLain’s eye at the window of Van Gundy’s Jewelers, a spark was ignited. Not one that would normally invest that amount on a luxury impulse buy,  Jonell nevertheless couldn’t get the necklace out of her mind. She started thinking creatively. What if some friends were interested in sharing it?  A plot was hatched. Thirteen women would share the necklace, each having it for one month—a “time-share” for jewelry—including Priscilla Van Gundy, the store owner’s wife.

 

            “Jewelia,” the newly-named necklace,  would be used for fundraising efforts to support charities. The thirteen women, ages 50-62, discovered a newfound fellowship that deeply touched and transformed each of their lives. Jewelia re-ignited routine marriages. “It made me feel sexy again.” The necklace was worn for special occasions—“it made me feel like a movie star”—as well as boogie-boarding in Hawaii. It gave a sense of hope, of second chances, of a new life, of rebirth. “I felt alive.” It bonded the women together in unexpected ways. “What had been a symbol of exclusivity became a symbol of inclusivity.”

 

            The story touches a nerve. It taps into the current trends of women buying their own jewelry, of jewelry being used to promote charities and of innovative techniques for people to own a piece of something spectacular—renting designer dresses, handbags and jewelry.

 

            This is not the first story of the transformative value of a special necklace. De Maupassant’s classic The Necklace tells the story of a wife of modest means who, craving something more, borrows her neighbor’s diamond necklace for a special party. In a Cinderella moment, she metamorphoses into the belle of the ball. Every eye is upon her.  As she returns home, she is mortified to discover she has lost the necklace! Biting the bullet, she and her husband take out a massive loan, replace the necklace (they are too ashamed to reveal they have lost it), and spend the next decade of their lives working to repay the loan, sinking into a life of drudgery and near poverty. A chance meeting when the loan is finally repaid uncovers an ironic twist. The neighbor reveals the necklace was paste, inexpensive costume jewelry. The couple’s lives had been determined by the unnecessary repayment of a debt which was not due.

 

            A necklace can not only transform the life of a individual or a group, it can even transform a society. The Affair of the Necklace, the 2001 movie starring Hilary Swank,  reveals the real-life scandal involving Marie Antoinette that helped precipitate the French Revolution. It’s a colorful tale involving romance, scandal and intrigue that could hardly be imagined if it weren’t true!

 

            In 1772 Louis XV commissions a spectacular necklace for his mistress, Mme.du Barry. The Crown Jewelers Broehmer and Bassenge take several years to assemble a world-class collection of large diamonds and fashion them into a magnificent elaborate design. Unfortunately, Louis XV’s untimely death almost bankrupts the jewelers who have not yet been paid for the piece. Enter Jeanne de La Motte-Valois, an orphan who, fighting to restore her name and place in society, hatches a plot to sell the necklace to Marie Antoinette. Jeanne collaborates with Cardinal Prince Rohan, an out-of-favor courtier. The fascinating  plot involves a famous mystic, Count Cagliostro, romantic intrigues—including Jeanne’s affair with the Cardinal—and secret meetings with mistaken identities.

 

            Although Marie Antoinette ultimately refuses the necklace (perhaps she did not want a piece designed for another woman, and a mistress at that!), she becomes embroiled in the widely publicized trial which further tarnishes her reputation, already weakened by gossip and scandal. The resulting strain on the monarchy hastens its collapse…the French Revolution.

 

            So the next time you put that special necklace in your display case, think for a moment. How will this transform someone’s life? The truth may be magic.

The Lore and Lure of Gems

 

Sparkling. Enticing. Enchanting. Do you secretly covet a large, flawless diamond? Are you mesmerized by the rich beauty of emeralds? Do you treasure tantalizing tanzanite?

 

Throughout the ages, gems have captivated us with their alluring magic. The ancient Egyptians revered midnight-blue lapis lazuli, pairing it with purest gold in striking ornaments for their royal pharaohs. In the India of antiquity, rubies were known as the “king of gems”. Warriors, believing these precious gems to convey invincibility, wore them into battle for protection. The Chinese have venerated jade for millennia, considering it a celestial blessing, a harbinger of happiness and prosperity. Rich purple amethyst, included in the British Crown Jewels, has been favored by both royalty and clergy. According to lore, its influence helps prevent drunkenness! Shining turquoise, the color of the sky, was sacred to the American Indian, and is still widely used in Native American jewelry.

          

            The ancient lore surrounding precious gems fosters a mystique. We are captivated by their charm. Who does not know his own birthstone? Mother’s rings, featuring the children’s birthstones, remain a popular cherished tradition.

 Even the world-weary sceptic has a soft spot for romance. It’s the spice of life. Do you cast a curious glance at your daily horoscope? Or play your “lucky numbers” in the lottery? Even Scrooge eventually succumbed to the spirit of Christmas, the magic of seeing the world through the joy and awe of a child. Love spawns the greatest romance, for love has the highest transformative power. Even though “once bitten” by love, not only incurable romantics throw caution to the wind to grasp again for the brass ring of happiness. The romance is the dream. What could be more captivating than a perfect, pure diamond as a pledge of this shared dream of happiness? A diamond is forever

 

The subtle effects of gems are legend. Stone cutters of yore would rejuvenate their fatigued eyes by gazing at emeralds, considered to have restorative powers for vision. Today’s “New Age” resurgent interest in crystals touts the subtle effects of quartz, tourmaline, tiger eye, carnelian—most natural gems—especially in their original or crystalline form. Often used directly for healing purposes, such as in massage therapy, these “healing stones” are also popularly incorporated into talismans and amulets.

 

Jewels project power. Traditionally the domain of royalty, precious gems have been incorporated into Crown Jewels throughout the ages. Coronation—crowning the monarch with precious gems—conveys their potency, symbolically bestowing royalty, even divinity. Some world-class jewels, such as the Hope Diamond, are so compelling they generate their own legends. According to ancient lore, the magnificent blue Hope was the stolen eye from the statue of an Indian deity, resulting in the gem’s “curse”. Owned throughout the ages by a plethora of the world’s royalty and elite, including Louis XIV of France, it was eventually acquired by jeweler extraordinaire Harry Winston, who gifted it to the Smithsonian Museum, its current home.

 

Do you believe? Tap into the romance of stones. Nourish the dream. Successful salespeople are aware of the power of the lore of gems. They romance the sale. The secret key to sales is that ultimately you sell yourself. A genuine love of gems is infectious. Through nourishing their lore, you nurture yourself. Spinning the web of romance, you unfurl your dream. The captivating lore and lure of gems is a self-fulfilling prophecy.

      

Fashion Forward >>

It’s fresh! It’s hot! The newest look! It’s must-have jewelry! 

            It’s all about style. Many women are now buying their own jewelry. Today’s fashion-forward clients seek cutting-edge design.

 

Fashion is fun! Plunge in and enjoy the freshness of emergent looks, the excitement of being “in the know” as the next “big look” surfaces. Today’s savvy jeweler positions himself as an expert in design trends. Styles in your store should reflect awareness of what’s fashion-forward as well as traditional values.

 

            Fashion trends move in cycles, longer and shorter. Think back a decade or more. Diamond tennis or line bracelets and colored stones made a splash and are still mainstream popular. Certain trends have that staying power.  Five to ten years ago, chandelier earrings, briolettes, the multi-strand look, large bangles and mixed colors and metals all rocketed to the forefront. Chandelier earrings have morphed into a leaner, more elongated line, some in exaggerated “shoulder-duster” lengths. Styles evolve over time. Look for fresh new twists as these recent trends continue to evolve. Blackened steel juxtaposed with gold is an edgy mixing of metals, currently attracting high visibility, important as gold prices continue to soar. Short one- to two-year cycles reflect the freshest, cutting-edge looks. Chocolate and earth-tone gems and anything organic, including uncut diamonds and colored pearls, are hot.  “Green” jewelry, environmentally aware and ethically sourced, is a strong trend to watch.

 

            Jewelry is seasonal. Mixed pastel summer colors—think turquoise—and carefree styles such as lariats resonate with the season’s casual approach. As Autumn beckons, clients seek warmer tones—yellow, orange and brown diamonds, sapphires and topaz—to match the season’s palette. When Winter nears, reach for serious jewelry. This is the season for pieces that make a statement. Holiday high-profile events lend themselves to important jewels. Bring out your diamonds, your high-karat gold and platinum. Now is the time for that remarkable one-of-a-kind designer original that will set your client apart as a trend-setter, a fashion icon. The rebirth of Spring rides a gentler wave. Look for jewelry inspired by nature, including leaf, flower and shell motifs, and animal pieces, currently in the spotlight

 

            How to tap into what’s hot? Stay abreast by attending trade shows, subscribing to  top fashion magazines and watching the Oscar style wrap-ups. Tune into the celebrity watch. Listen to your clients—what they’re asking for, buying and wearing. Monitor what’s selling. Pay heed to the fashion forecasters—the jewelry designers, fashion editors and celebrity stylists. They all have the pulse of the latest trends and a vision of what’s on the horizon.

 

          And remember that good design is always rooted in what’s timeless. It reflects a cutting-edge awareness, but will never go out of style. The confident, style-conscious woman will always choose what suits her, with a nod to the current style scene. She wears her jewelry; it does not wear her. Position yourself as the savvy stylist, and she will turn to you again and again for advice in complementing her jewelry wardrobe, knowing she will always be fashion-forward.                                                    

Jewelry Wardrobe 101

 Women love to collect jewels! Become your client’s best friend…her jewelry wardrobe consultant.         

     Jewelry today is about fashion.  Celebrities, dazzling at red-carpet events with gorgeous designer pieces, instantly spawn trends that ripple throughout the industry. Magazines and television shopping networks touting the hottest new “look” —the organic look inspired by nature, chocolate and pink gold, multicolored gems, including diamonds, in earth tones—are ubiquitous.       

     More women with an eye for style and color are buying their own jewelry. Sophisticated clients, aware of fashion trends and their own individual style, seek guidance in “putting it all together”—designing their jewelry wardrobe.          

      Position yourself as the expert, the jewelry wardrobe consultant.  You can help  your client develop a wardrobe with a integrated style that suits her appearance, individual style preferences and personal lifestyle. Fine jewelry is a major investment. Guide her in developing in her own sense of style—become her jewelry stylist. As she gains confidence, she will naturally turn to you time after time for suggestions in developing her expanding collection—as well as recommendations for that special occasion or gift.            

      Every jewelry wardrobe needs the basics: versatile pieces that can be worn on range of occasions—from casual to professional to dressy. Suggest gold hoop earrings, gold chain necklaces and diamond stud earrings. Add a classic strand of pearls and pearl stud earrings and a gold bangle bracelet or diamond line bracelet as “essentials” that can be worn on any occasion, informal or formal. She will reach for again and again these pieces with universal style.                 

      Now—branch out! Consider your client’s appearance, her coloring. Does she have blue or green eyes that aquamarines or emeralds would complement? Olive skin tones resonate with rich gold and earth tone gems—including colored pearls and diamonds. Very large, bold jewelry may overpower the petite woman, but dramatically enhance someone taller.                

     Ask her about her personal style preferences and lifestyle. Does she love yellow or white gold?  What gems is she drawn to? Suggest new gems in her preferred color palate. If she loves rubies, introduce her to rubellite or pink diamonds. Observe the way she dresses. Casual, trendy, artsy, classic? Her jewelry should enhance her wardrobe. Jewelry is seasonal. Light pastels work beautifully with summer wardrobes; richer, darker colors complement winter’s colors. A range of pieces that work throughout the year is ideal.                      

     Next, consider adding a cocktail ring…a beautiful colored gemstone ring, perhaps accented with diamonds. Suggest a gorgeous necklace that can be worn on special occasions to make a statement, but with enough versatility to be suited for casual or business dress.  Open the doors to new horizons; present new possibilities. Consider the popular multistrand look with multicolored stones. Suggest colored pearls, including beautiful Tahitian and South Sea, in fashion-forward yet timeless styles.  Medallions and circle pendant necklaces currently have wide-spread appeal. Try a large bangle or a pin. Rather than the matched “suites” of the 1950s, jewelry pieces today should “mix and match” for maximum versatility and presentation of style. And try new pieces on! Many pieces “come alive” when worn, and the same piece may appear dramatically different on different clients.                  

     As your client’s confidence grows, suggest designer pieces. Like building an art collection, she is building an heirloom collection that will give her a lifetime of enjoyment as she wears the pieces every day. With guidance, rather than simply acquiring random pieces on whim, she is now developing a unified jewelry wardrobe that expresses her personal style, and discovering her own style in the process.                                                          

Follow Your Dreams

 As You Find Your Place in the World, It’s Your Life You Are Creating 

            How were you drawn to the jewelry world? Were you enticed by the lore and love of gems? Or inspired by the creative impulse to design articles of beauty?  Did you inherit a family business? Or perhaps come from a line of family goldsmiths?  Whether you have ancestral roots in the trade or were drawn by your own impulses, to find your niche in the world, you must discover what drives you and nourish it, for this is your destiny. Creating your place in the world is creating your unique life. It is following your dream.

 

The jewelry world encompasses myriad possibilities, each with its own unique set of skills: bench jeweler, jewelry artist, designer, retailer/entrepreneur, wholesaler, salesperson, gemologist, appraiser….Discover what you enjoy and are good at…what fits. This is what will bring success. Do you dream at night of new designs, thrilled as you bring them to manifestation? You may be a jewelry artist at heart. Are you inspired by concepts and ideas? You share the designer’s milieu. Are you good with your hands, loving fine craftsmanship? You may be a  craftsperson, bench jeweler, or even master jeweler. Jewelry photography, graphic design and advertising all share the spark of creative expression, but with their unique angle. Consider branching out, putting up some trial balloons, and see what brings a response. You may discover you have multiple talents. Your inclinations may change over time.

 

  Do you love the challenge of growing your own business, being your own boss?  You have the entrepreneurial spirit. If you’ve honed your organizational skills, your niche may be in a larger jewelry company. Are you a people person? Jewelry is a friendly trade. Discovering to how to satisfy customers and developing relationships with clients is the key to success at sales. If you love interacting with people, this may be your forte. Unveiling new opportunities and stretching yourself is what keeps the spark alive. Live consciously. Don’t get stale. Follow your dreams.

         

“Man’s character is his fate,” divined the ancient Greek philosopher Heraclitus. In today’s world, we celebrate life in freedom. It’s our rallying cry, our ideal. But life in freedom may seem rudderless, like a leaf blowing in the wind. As you discover your niche in the world, you are creating your life’s meaning. Drawing from your roots, recognizing the seed impulses within you, making them your own and nourishing them, you are creating your unique path. You are realizing your self, for your character is your fate.

          

           Life’s possibilities are endless. Reaching for the stars is what keeps us young, for youth is hope.  Fulfilling our dreams brings the rewards of accomplishment and recognition. Our life is our legacy, our ultimate creation. Discovering and creating our unique life is the ultimate reward. Nourish your dreams. It’s what keeps you alive. And enjoy the process, for life is a work in process. The end is in the means. Living consciously is fulfilling your dreams.  

Beauty–In the Eye of the Beholder?

 

            We all crave beauty. We seek to surround ourselves with beautiful people, beautiful objects. It’s the essence of what we desire, that magnetic force that attracts us. But what is beauty?  Conventional wisdom claims beauty is relative, in the eye of the beholder. Is the image of super-thin models projected today in magazines a healthy ideal of beauty, or actually toxic? Different cultures, different individuals—each have their own standards of what is appealing.

 

Advertising’s goal is to shape these perceptions. Major campaigns promote the image that “A diamond is forever,” the truest expression of love; that platinum is pure, rare and eternal. Billions are spent annually marketing the hottest new “look.” But is our perception of beauty really relative, changeable? Can our tastes be influenced? Understanding what attracts us is the key to marketing success.

 

            Beauty to the ancient Greeks was a quality of our perception. The more heightened our awareness, the greater the glory we behold around us. When we’re in love, completely awake and alive, we see the world through rose-colored glasses. We see beauty everywhere. According to the philosopher Plato, as our awareness expands, we can see beauty in more universal forms, ultimately perceiving absolute Beauty. Beauty for the ancients also had a timeless, eternal quality. According to Aristotle, the qualities of “wholeness, harmony and radiance” were the enduring values associated with beauty. Beauty is absolute, yet also influenced by our relative perception.  

 

            For today’s jeweler, beauty is key. Beauty is what we desire, what customers covet. To awaken, influence and fulfill your clients’ desires, consider both the absolute and relative aspects of beauty. The irresistible pull of timeless beauty shapes our perception of important pieces. Clients seeking heirloom quality jewelry respond to classic designs of simplicity and balance with universal appeal. Today’s popular circle pendant is the current manifestation of the circle pin, ubiquitous decades ago. What design could be more timeless than the circle? It’s no accident that the Tiffany solitaire diamond engagement ring introduced generations ago has remained so popular. The newly engaged are thinking long-term. Your ring should last at least as long as your marriage! The solitaire’s simple, classic design fits the bill.

 

            But jewelry shouldn’t be boring. There must be some freshness, a new twist that excites our emotion. The talented designer not only taps into the latest cutting-edge trend, rooting it in timeless principles of design, but actually creates a new vision. The designer awakens our desire by transforming our perception. David Yurman and Judith Ripka are current designers who were able to take the rich complexity of Victorian and “estate” jewelry and incorporate it into a bolder, simpler modern sensibility–one that has universal appeal, yet resonates with the times.

 

For the retailer, heighten your clients’ awareness, sharpen their desires, by creating an aura of beauty in your store. Showcase your jewelry in an upscale environment that relaxes yet excites, using attractive displays and packaging and presenting special shows with live models. One new trend that appeals especially to the increasing number of women buying their own jewelry is to provide a nourishing “salon” environment with refreshments and music. And when your client tries on that necklace, compliment her! Let her know it increases her beauty. Psychological aspects make a difference.

 

            Today our style-makers are celebrities, editors and designers. They shape our collective vision. The secret of success is to tune into these current trends while staying rooted in timeless values.  Beauty for the ancients was what we all seek, our ultimate goal. The more clearly you see beauty and how to foster it, the more successful you will be—providing fulfillment through the satisfaction of desire.

 

                                                         

                            

Angeli Puri…Miss India-World

Jeweler’s Profile

International Jewelry Designer and Women’s Advocate          

       “Out of a great loss, I got a great business.” So Angeli Kapoor Puri, internationally celebrated jewelry designer, businesswoman, promoter of the Miss India-Angelworld contest, and advocate for women’s rights, describes her dramatic introduction into the jewelry business. “I was born in East Africa, but grew up in India. I married into a jewelry family. My father-in-law had previously, at the time of Indian Independence (1947), quietly bought from various Maharajas (princes) collections from their Crown jewels, which they were at the time interested in divesting.” Many Maharajas, rich with treasures of jewels available in India, formerly had their Crown Jewels designed by very prestigious European jewelry houses, such as Cartier, who took the native jewels and designed them into fabulous Crown Jewels for the princes.            

        “So as a young bride, I had access to these fabulous world-class jewels to wear. However, I was love-struck, married for love, and did not appreciate these treasures, which did not fit my casual life-style and dress at the time. What you don’t value, you lose. One night, while our family was staying at a hotel, a burglar broke in and, threatening my mother at knife-point, stole the entire priceless Collection. I was devastated, and decided I had to try to recreate these incredible treasures. This was the beginning of my transformation.”           

        Angeli Puri, who divides her time living in London and Delhi, also frequently travelling to Dubai, Singapore and the US, continues, “I decided to take jewelry classes in London, trying to re-create what was lost. I discovered I could not really re-create them, but instead, discovered I had a knack for design, and started my own Collections, inspired by old-world style, but with a modern sensibility—a blend of old and new. So began my career as a jewelry designer. My Collections were, through social connections, picked up by celebrities and featured in prominent boutiques, and sold very well. Today, my company has two basic lines, a fashion line and a high-end Collection featuring diamonds only, especially rose-cut diamonds.” (http://www.theangelworld.com)           

       “My love of jewelry continues to this day. Although I have expanded into diverse business ventures, I keep getting drawn back into jewelry.” Angeli Puri’s family is involved in international real estate, and she frequently visits incredibly affluent Dubai, a burgeoning international center for high-end jewelry, and indeed, every possible luxury item. “Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie recently bought real estate there.”                  

        Through her established connections with celebrities and “Bollywood” (Indian film) stars, Angeli Puri was asked to judge the Miss India-Worldwide contest in South Africa. “Again, a transformation.” Angeli Puri formed her own company, Miss India-Angelworld, and remains very active to this day, frequently travelling around the world to help sponsor and promote this platform. Not just a traditional “beauty contest,” the program seeks justice and empowerment for women world-wide: all proceeds from the contest go directly to benefiting the status of women.                    

       A passionate advocate for the role of women, Angeli Puri draws attention to the standing of women in India. “Although women have equal rights according to the Indian Constitution, in reality, India is still a patriarchal culture. Even practices such as selective abortion and infanticide of females are not uncommon. We seek to draw attention to these unjust practices, so they can be eliminated, and women can be empowered.”  She is currently helping organize a peace conference sponsored in Jaipur, India,  focusing on developing future women leaders and role models for the world.                  

        This truly exceptional, international, multi-faceted woman is herself an exemplary model, shining in all areas of life, empowering by example. Combining her natural resourcefulness with the wisdom of experience, she has expanded her own transformations to the widest possible platform, helping to transform the world.                          

Go Green! The Greening of Jewelry

     The world is going green. From hybrid cars to natural foods, from “An Inconvenient Truth” to carbon footprints, green is “in.” Leonardo di Caprio poses with Knut the baby polar bear on the cover of Vanity Fair,  highlighting global warming. Green is everywhere, mainstream and sexy. The new global awareness spans concerns for our environmental impact, ethical sources of production and issues of social justice. By tapping into this important trend, jewelry manufacturers and retailers can connect with their clients’ burgeoning awareness. Jewelers who demonstrate their social conscience help win their client’s confidence.  Tune in, tap into the trend, and help transform the world. It’s a win-win situation.

 

     Today we walk more lightly on the Earth. Environmentally aware manufacturers monitor the impact of their jewelry production techniques, bringing transparency to sources of production. “Green gold” producers recycle gold or promote innovative projects such as “Standard Zero,” which helps sustain artisanal mining in some of the poorest areas of the world. “Green silver” designer John Hardy’s policy of “sustainable luxury” includes planting bamboo to offset its company’s carbon footprint. Why does this matter to you? Because it matters to your increasingly sophisticated clients. By demonstrating environmental awareness,  you reveal to your clients our common concern for the future of our planet, gaining their allegiance and trust. Good ethics means good business.

 

     The global Fair Trade Movement focuses attention on ethical sources of production. By the time the film “Blood Diamond” was released, the crisis in “conflict diamonds” had already peaked.  De Beers proactive introduction of the self-monitoring Kimberly Process had already averted major violations—only an estimated one percent of the world’s diamond supply still involved potentially questionable sources. Currently the concern for Myanmar rubies supporting corrupt regimes and the subsequent industry-wide boycott shows ethical sourcing is a trend here to stay. These are selling points for all those with a conscience.

 

     “Jewelry for a cause” is a hot major trend. Celebrities and politicians sporting Lance Armstrong’s Livestrong bracelet wear their hearts on their sleeve…or at least their wrist. Ubiquitous pink ribbon pins reveal jewelers tapping into this trend, pledging a portion of their profits to the Cure. It’s a way of giving back and a way of making people feel good about buying, especially perceived “guilty pleasure” luxury items. Be creative. Feature your own favorite cause into your next promotion.  Create special events for charities. Promote your project and have a wider impact. You can make a difference. 

 

     Today’s “jewelry with a message” replaces traditional spiritual themes with updated world themes. Buddhist and yoga pendants are especially popular among the ever-increasing market share of jewelry bought by women. Talismans and amulets featuring messages of planetary peace and harmony reflect the global atmosphere of today’s jewelry.

 

     In jewelry design, organic themes from nature such as bamboo, leaves and stars are everywhere, a nod to the new green awareness. Organic, fluid, asymmetric and complex designs derived from nature are reflected in mutli-strand necklaces with myriads of gem  colors and shapes. Jewelry featuring mixtures of metals and other natural materials— including leather and wood—proliferate.

    

     The ultimate “green” jewelry is jewelry that’s…green! Look for this important  cutting-edge trend to continue. Green gems such as prasiolite or “green amethyst,” the ever-popular turquoise, emeralds, peridot, jade, green tourmaline, green diamonds and even green gold are showing strong.  Green is the traditional symbol of Spring, of rebirth.  As the current political climate reveals, change and hope are in the air. It’s a green new world. By tapping into this growing positive trend, we can be part of this all-winning transformation.

The Emotional Appeal of Jewelry

     We’ve all been there. A beautiful necklace catches your eye in the store window. On impulse, you try it on. How beautiful the sparkling gems are…what gorgeous colors! Just trying it on makes you feel radiant and exuberant. Even though it’s a bit over budget, and there’s no special occasion, you have to have it. What forces are at work here? If you’re creating or selling jewelry, seeing why it can have such a powerful pull is key.

     We have a primal urge for self-adornment. From indigenous cultures wearing shells, beads and feathers, people throughout the ages have decorated themselves, even piercing their noses and ears—as we still do today—to express themselves. The impulse is universal. Through adornment, we alter and glorify our bodies, our image of ourselves. 

     By nature, we all seek beauty. The ancient philosopher Plato saw Beauty as the ultimate goal of all our desires, the ultimate good. Cultures throughout the ages have taken Nature’s most beautiful, precious elements—pure gold and platinum and rare, precious gems—and formed them into objects that accentuate their beauty. What’s more gorgeous than pure radiant gold rich, almost liquid in its softness, a perfect diamond, or a rare Columbian emerald? But unlike the transient beauty of a flower or rainbow, the beauty captured in  rare gems and precious metals is timeless, approaching ultimate Beauty. “A diamond is forever.”

     Gold is wealth. Like insatiable Midas’s, our desire for gold is the craving for unlimited riches. Its pull is elemental. Throughout the ages, gold has served as currency. Wearing gold jewelry openly displays one’s status to the world. In India, traditionally the family’s wealth was fabricated into elaborate 24 karat gold necklaces, earrings and bangles. As the form of soft pure gold would inevitably deteriorate over time, it would simply be melted down and reshaped into new jewelry. A charming alternative to storing wealth in computerized bank accounts!

     Jewelry is charged with meaning. The savvy marketer understands and taps into these symbols and their emotional pull. Today’s updated version of traditional religious jewelry—crosses and saints medals—are amulets conveying positive messages of peace, hope, saving the planet…a strong current trend. Medallions, another popular trend, hearken back to ancient use of medals as emblems of valor. Crown jewels signify royalty, even divinity.  Today our celebrity “royals” wearing jeweled hair ornaments or small tiaras on the red carpet are a nod to this tradition.

     Above all, jewelry is personal. Birthstone jewelry, mother’s rings, ID bracelets and engraving all add an individual touch that makes a ring or bracelet more precious, uniquely our own. Love, the most powerful of human emotions, is captured in engagement and wedding rings. The circular shape of the rings, signifying eternity, the  use of everlasting diamonds, the exchanging of rings at the heart of the wedding ceremony…all are powerful symbolic elements drawing on this emotion, making bridal jewelry—as well as today’s off-shoots, eternity bands and journey pendants—the core of today’s jeweler’s sales. 

     Embodying beauty and wealth, composed of the most precious, eternal elements of nature, charged with symbolism, appealing to our most powerful emotions, jewelry taps into virtually every element that moves us.  No wonder that necklace in the window draws you in! Revealing these layers of significance turns an important key to our success in designing and promoting jewelry. The more we open to the emotional appeal of jewels, the richer our appreciation grows for these treasures of the ages.

Jewelry–Art or Craft? What’s the Difference? And Why You Need to Know

Does art jewelry really sell? Should I try the craft fair circuit? For jewelry-makers today, the plethora of marketing opportunities may seem overwhelming—craft fairs, art galleries, mainstream jewelry stores.…What’s the best venue for marketing jewelry? Which niche does my work best fit into? And what’s the difference between art and craft, anyway?

 

Artisan jewelry today is hot. The resurgence of desire for jewelry with a “soul” springs as a reaction against the ubiquity of cookie-cutter, factory-produced jewelry marketed through large discount chains and television shopping networks. Anything unique, handcrafted, with an artist’s touch, commands a premium. Clients seek pieces that speak directly to them, that move them. Upscale department stores create jewelry art “galleries” within their jewelry departments, showcasing individual designers. But is jewelry really art?

 

From the time of the ancient Egyptian faience workers and Chinese jade carvers, every great culture has celebrated the exquisite craftsmanship of its jewelry artisans. Today’s finest jewelry is prized for such technical skill as precision of detail and intricate setting techniques, such as micropave.

 

But is this technical skill the same as art? R.J.Collingwood in his classic The Principles of Art claims craft always involves skill, a set means to an end. By practice, the craftsperson refines technique and produces the desired end—a bezel setting, the soldering of a joint—with more efficiency and perfection. The formula, the set means to the end, is always the same.

 

The true artist, by contrast, according to Collingwood, utilizes the creative process, which by nature is unique and individual. The artist starts with a vague feeling—“I feel…I don’t know what I feel.” Through the process of creation, he becomes clearly conscious of a particular sentiment, at first only dimly experienced. He manifests this inner experience, embodied in the work of art, revealing its special quality to himself as well as others. The distinct quality of emotion revealed—the delicacy of a filigree brooch or boldness of design—is different from any other. The artist may utilize craft or technique in the creative process, but the process transcends mere craft.

 

Clients today crave this emotional, vital element, recognize it, and will pay a premium for it. Notice your clients responding to a special, unique necklace or ring in this way. It’s that spark of recognition that captivates them and makes them fall in love with the piece. For successful sales, recognize this element. By paying attention to your client’s desire for jewelry that is unique and expressive and showing them how your jewelry satisfies that desire, you will gain a grateful client and successful sale.

 

Another client may be more interested in a piece’s technical skill or craft. Bring to her attention these qualities in the jewelry—the detailed hand-workmanship, the fineness of the polish. Notice what your client responds to and speak to her unique desires.

Currently very popular, designer jewelry fills a special niche in the market. Like art jewelry, designer jewelry is artistic in its conception—the inspired creation of an individual, often expressing a recognizable style—although the fabrication of the design may be mass-produced. In addition, in designer jewelry, the designer is generally established enough for the name to be known…through winning of awards, advertising and promotion. A client interested in name recognition and status of jewelry will respond to this factor.

Whether you’re selling art, craft or designer jewelry, the more aware you are of the unique characteristics of each type, and the more you recognize what specifically will appeal to your client and speak to this, the more successful your sales will be.

For the artist, craftsperson or designer, all possibilities exist. You may choose to create and market your jewelry as craft or art or both. Seek to discover what suits your own desires and skills and what will be most profitable for you. Find your own niche. You may be pleasantly surprised to find that in the process, you are discovering what is most important to you and creating your own place in the world.